Wednesday, December 17, 2008

ArgenTime

So I noticed that it has been quite some time since I posted in this blog. In the intervening time, I´ve been globetrotting a bit--an indigenous women´s convention in southern Bolivia, a YAGM retreat with the other volunteers in Uruguay, touristing it up in Montevideo, and several assorted smaller trips. All of those experiences someday will become profound and well-written personal essays as well as blog posts, of course. But in the meantime, I am passing days with beautiful, charming children, teaching recorder and yoga, drawing a lot, and reconfiguring my perceptions of time.

Adjusting to Argentine time has been one of the more difficult cultural changes for me. The stereotypes of promptness or lack thereof in Latin America are not especially true here--buses run on time, for the most part, and businesses keep regular hours, for the most part, and people arrive to appointments roughly on time. Readers who know me well know that I begrudge no one their extra fifteen minutes for a coffee date, so a slightly relaxed approach to scheduling is just fine with me! I hypothesize that increased dependence on public transport, which runs frequently but irregularly, creates a half-hour cushion around most stated times.

However, many things do not run on exact times. There are basically four times in Resistencia: mañana, morning, which runs about 6-12; siesta, nap-time, which runs about 12-4; tarde, or afternoon, from 4ish to 9ish; and noche, night, from 10ish on. When scheduling events in the barrio, it´s much more common to indicate that it will happen in one of these times than labeling a more specific point on the clock. Much of this is logistical, as the great majority of the families involved in the church live close enough to the building that they can easily see if the pastor´s van shows up, if Jake or I am waiting outside the building, or if their neighbors come by to suggest that the event start. It just isn´t necessary to be much more specific than morning, afternoon, or evening: Events starts when the people involved show up. Stores open when the owner gets there, and close when s/he leaves.

Also, because of the severe heat here in the spring, summer, and fall (and sometimes during the winter, too), nearly every business in town closes during the siesta hours. Practically, this means that if someone (almost always the woman of the household) is not available to do morning shopping, families can´t easily get food. I am sure that many people find ways around this, but it is strange for me realizing that I must have my mornings free if Jake and I are to have bread and fresh produce. I spend half an hour to an hour every morning going to the four stores that supply us with food (the bakery, the meat shop, the vegetable shop, and the supermarket). If this schedule does (almost) compel households to have a stay-at-home woman or a domestic worker, it can also be used to empower women. In the barrio, an elementary school for adults that did not finish-the vast majority women--runs during this time when the rest of the city closes down. This opens up many opportunities; one woman recently explained to me that because of her advancing education, she can now do her own banking!

In addition to the local times, the church year and liturgical time direct my consciousness and support the life of the Misión. I feel "at home" celebrating Advent, in a new country, with a new congregation of believers, but connected to the same God and the same Biblical narratives of Christ´s coming birth. Like most Lutheran churches during Advent, also, we are preparing the Christmas pageant, figuring out which of the squirming, lovable children will portray María, which will be angels, and who will tutor them in memorizing their Lines.

And underneath the whole Misión is God´s time for the project. Often I want God to work a miracle, to make the economic difficulties, the addictions, the hunger, the curable diseases in the barrio disappear--or at least to hurry along the people in demanding their rights. Working with individuals, with systems, with communities to build the Kingdom of God takes lots of time, sometimes very slow-moving time. And sometimes the building bricks are invisible to me, and I need those that I accompany to explain to me, patiently, that my frustrations actually represent advances--that the occasional chaos of the center represents happy interactions that would have been impossible some years before, that the slowness of opening a new project represents women in the community, rather than outside agents, learning to operate the project themselves, that an older child teaching a younger child a game that to me seems meaningless represents a positive interaction instead of continued cycles of violence. Learning to wait on God´s time requires patience that I sometimes think I lack, but it allows small rituals and daily interactions the dignity they are due, and the recognition of God´s hand in the quotidian and mundane.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Feliz Navidad, prospero año... oh wait, thats a Mexican song!

I hear that a LOT of snow has fallen this week. Here, on the other hand, I'm struck by the strange juxtaposition of tank tops, flip-flops and christmas trees. It doesn't quite feel right to me, which has made me reflect on what some US citizens (and residents) must feel when they hear/see stories about white christmases.



Here, you can see a lot of continuities with US-style Christmas celebration, which is to say that global marketing does indeed seem to impact rituals more than nationality at this point in human history. Most of the stores downtown a running sales, encouraging shoppers to buy STUFF for their loved ones (at rather high interest rates), and everyone has at least one PAPA NOEL or Christmas tree in the window. Outside of the commercial district, there are random spatterings of christmas lights on some houses and a number of small christmas trees in the neighbor's windows. As I talk about chrismas trees here, let me make clear that I haven't seen one higher than three feet. And as far as lights go, we're not talking about my uncle's 50,000 light Clark Griswold creation, but rather a few strings of multicolored lights to circle windows.



The city has put up a number of decorations to make the season. Large white-light stars and strings of light arranged in cones can be seen lining the streets and plazas of the city. Seeing them certainly evokes a similar vision of the cities that we've lived in the States, as does the Christmas tree-like light image on the side of the Provincial Governor's offices.



Also like in the States, a majority of official correspondence avoids references to the Jesus part of Christmas and refers instead to the party. "Felices fiestas" proclaim all of the store's windows and newspaper ads. The national newspaper, Clarin, has been publishing children's stories and published stories about Papa Noel and the Reindeer before arriving at the last one, the birth of Jesus, which should arrive this Sunday. Of course, the fact that the Jesus story is coming out with a mainstream paper is probably something we would NEVER see in the states, but the trends in secular celebration are striking.



Angela and I will be celebrating this Christmas in a pretty conventional way. This week Angela is helping put the Christmas program together with the kiddos in the barrio: basic christmas story with shepherds, kings, a small child playing an angel and the youngest newborn playing the part of Jesus. Along with the nativity celebration on Saturday night, we'll also celebrate the end of the school year, the birthdays of all of the kids that come to the after-school program, and a host of other events. Should be a VERY joyous event. Christmas day will be spent with our host family, probably involving some AMAZING food.


Something to think about...

I think that most Christmas media pokes fun at California for not having snow on Christmas, ever (I'm thinking specifically about Woody Allen here), but what about those vast expanses of the US Southwest and Southeast (and Carribean?) that see snow once every decade, and never on Christmas? Do they WANT a white christmas? Does the temperature change we way we experience the holiday (obviously the trappings and specific rituals, but does a warm climate facilitate a sense of openness and welcoming better than a cold one, or is it the opposite)?

The holidays are a time to see people that you love, to share the peace of company and the compassion of solidarity. We miss those of you who are reading this more than you can know, but we are also excited that we have this time together and that we're able to participate in celebration with our friends here.

¡FELIZ NAVIDAD!

Monday, December 1, 2008

Movement and transition

Happy December everyone!

Angela and I have just returned from our first trimester check-in retreat with the ELCA program. We were in Uruguay, the country situated just up the Atlantic coast from Buenos Aires, and had an absolutely amazing experience! We spent a couple of days on an organic farm (I'm sure that Angela will comment on this at greater length), and even put together a nice thanksgiving dinner!

I find myself at the moment in a period of transition after the recharge that the retreat provided. One of the things that I would like to change the most is the way that I communicate with those of you reading this blog up in the North. I'm surprised by my relative silence on some important questions related to our mission here, and really by the infrequency of my posts! For someone who feels like he's writing all the time, I find that my words here don't do justice to what you all would like to read or should be reading.

So, I'm going to try to post more regularly, and I am also trying to put together an email list to put out some specific stories.

We pray that this wintery weather and Holiday season find you all in high hopes, positive spirits, and large mugs filled with warm liquids.