Sunday, November 23, 2008

The Quantum of Solace

For those of you interested in reading some comments about the new James Bond flick, read ahead. WARNING!!! SPOILERS AND CRITICAL COMMENTARY ABOUND!

So, a week ago Angela and I went on a date to see the new James Bond: The Quantum of Solace. We were both very excited to go to a theater to see a movie (this was the first time we've done that since arriving in Argentina), especially since we loved the last Bond, Casino Royale, so much. We were kind of dissppointed for a few moments when we realized that the movie was slotted to be dubbed in Spanish, but we consoled ourselves with the understanding that Bond flicks have never been driven on dialogue (if you watch Casino Royale, you may note that the first chase scene allows for an almost eight-minute window of character silence). *I will gladly agree that the Bond one-liners are a staple of the franchise (for those of you who care, Matt), but dialogue on the whole is not why we watch Bond movies. IN ANY CASE, the movie turned out to be in English, so we didn't need to be consoled after all.

POLITICALLY: This is one of the most political Bonds that I've ever seen, which may or may not be news to those of you reading this. Admittedly, not having lived through the Cold War, the politics of some of the earlier films may not be immediately evident to me, tho I would certainly argue that Pierce Brosnan's tenure as Bond was marked by a distinct absence of realistic political commentary. I'm struck by the reviews of this movie that have negated (NY Times) or completely missed (Rocky Mountain News) the very prescient issues dealt with by this Bond.

*Bolivia: First of all, understand that this is the most unstable country in South America today and the filmakers were apparently working with a crystal ball because one of the film's plot points revolves around a proposed coup against the President, an event which transpired only a few weeks ago. Evo Morales, the Bolivian President, is an aboriginal coca leaf (yes, the root material of cocaine) farmer who has fought hard over the last several years to bring about sweeping social changes to favor the majority of working poor (and mostly indigent) indigenous community. His changes have been met with a lot of resistance by a few rich governors, which forced a very heated and even violent confrontation. While the Bond plot does not treat the issues that Evo has unearthed with any subtlety at all and the Bolivian General who will lead the coup is a stereotypical latin Generalisimo, we have a very real political issue on the screen, which absent an international financial crisis would probably merit more critical comment.

*Water: The villain of the film is a gem: well performed on all counts. Again, I'm surprised that the reviewers missed the very obvious political nature of his presence on the screen. Of course, this may be because the issues important to environmentalists in Northern Argentina may not be a part of every movie reviewers canon. Here in Argentina, Douglas Tompkins, the man responsible for creating the labels NORTH FACE and PATAGONIA, amongst others, has been buying large pieces of territory in the name of ecological reclamation. A majority of the Argentine population believes him to be a thief, even a CIA agent, working against the Argentine Republic by buying up its most important sources of water. There are some more mediated judgments of Tompkins, who has done similar projects in Chile and has created nature preserves that he later returned to state ownership as National Parks. I've been working with groups of people that deal with Tompkins on a regular basis, which is why this Bond villain immediately jumped off the screen. I encourage you to think about the reality that the movie puts forward: is water more valuable than oil? and what are we going to do with water in the future? To make an odd intertextual connection, can you imagine the world of Waterworld in which water is so valuable that it becomes a currency?

STRUCTURALLY: I'll keep this brief, but I just wanted to note that this Bond was beautiful in a lot of its technical aspects. The titles were a nice return to classic Bond symmetries and the Jack White composition (performed with Alicia Keys) proudly introduced cacophony as a theme of the movie: competing interests that unavoilably juxtapose, rearrange and battle for attention. The thing that I most thought about through the film was the way that the film indicted Bond's presence for being an interruption in other activities. The first sequence, for example, is a nice helicopter shot of the Italian coast: the viewer's appreciation of that beauty is constantly disrupted by shots of the car chase. A few minutes later, the altercation in the catacombs interrupts (not entirely), a horse race on the streets above. The questions that we can take from these observations are several: Is Bond (and espionage as we know it) necessary for our world today? If so, should we keep it as isolated as it has been historically? Or, in another vein, is the model broken, producing death instead of justice?

I loved this flick, and the pizza that we ate afterwards. Any thoughts that you may like to share are welcome.

Thank you Golden Oldies

I would like to send a large THANK YOU to the Golden Oldies at Cross of Christ for the kind note that they sent us almost a month ago. It is so nice to get mail, and your note was full of encouragement; it made us both feel so happy! Additionally, the words of advice and enthusiasm that many of you shared with us at COC before we left continue to inspire us. We only hope that we will be able to relate with younger generations as well as you have with us!

Happy Thanksgiving to you, and may the Peace of God fill your hearts and homes.

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

A not-so-intense post from Jake

So, I tend to get a little serious when I'm writing for this blog, but here are a few comments that I'm going to just put out there.

Food: Argentine food is notably more bland than Mexican food, but actually has a lot in common with American cuisine. A lot of meat and potatoes, soups, breads and fruit. My favorite food here is definitely steak, and I'll probably write a long post about Argentine beef sometime soon. My favorite dish is definitely Estofado, a mix between a stew and a heavy pasta dish. Yum! Pizza, hamburgers, and french fries also all figure prominently. And high blood pressure comes from too much salt, right? I wonder what the figures are on Argentines... they eat a lot of salt.

Wine: Argentinians know what they're doing, 'nuff said.

Soccer: The National Team just made the National Hero their coach. For those of you old enough to remember the World Cups of the 80's and 90's, you probably know the name Maradona. He has been brought in to bring the Argentine squad back to glory, or at least to raise the ratings on their next matches.

Ped Malls: Resistencia recently built a ped mall. Its pretty much exactly like Pearl Street in Boulder or Mass St. in Lawrence. We don't spend a lot of time there, but consumerism (I mean "investment" has a home).

Important thing to remember: Human beings are more than the bubbles that they circle on the census and they are more than the sum of the hours that the work. Dehumanization happens when we stop asking others questions and assume that we already have the answers.

Thursday, October 30, 2008

Organic agroecology, feminism, and spirituality

After that oh-so-unpresumptous title, this post demands a bit more seriousness than some previous posts. I have started to get beyond the pangs of homesickness and constant culture shock to participate in my placement and surroundings a bit more, and two weekends ago I had one of the most profound participatory experiences of my life.


I spent Friday through Sunday discussing food sovereignity, the right to eat, and the dangers of soy monoculture (devoting most of the Argentine farmland to soy production for export) in this country and others in South America. The women with whom I work at the mission in Resistencia and I attended a women´s retreat at an organic women´s coop farm near Santa Fe, the capital city of the province below El Chaco. The well-organized event was very educational and allowed me and other participants to develop our understandings of the problems related to food access in Argentina and especially how those problems relate to women´s lives.


The conference´s focus on "food sovereignity" was concerned with the basic human right to access ample, high-quality, culturally appropriate food. An important part of food sovereinity is the necessity of communities (i.e. nation-states) to produce all or most of their own food needs, so as not to be dependent on other nations for basic alimentation. This is especially relevant in Argentina, which, like the U.S., has vast tracts of agriculturally productive land. Based purely on natural resources, there is no reason that any Argentine should go hungry.
However, those vast tracts of land are currently producing soy for export instead of wheat, corn, beef, citrus, and other crops suitable for human consumption. Argentina is currently the second largest producer of soy in the world (after only the U.S.) , as soy genetically modified for Round-Up pesticide has proved extremely profitable for a very few people. Now, I do not know much about soy farming in the U.S., other than that I live around and am related to many soy farmers. I believe that the environmental controls on pesticide are fairly strict, and that we also have a greater need for soy than Argentina does. But the results of a rapid transition to soy farming here have had disastrous effects on the agricultural economy. Thousands of farm laborers have lost their jobs, forcing them to move to the cities, where there are no more jobs. In the meantime, basic foodstuff must be imported at high prices. Mass unemployment combined with increasing food costs have produced a lot of really, really unneccesary hunger. Poor environmental controls on RoundUp may have caused birth defects and considerable sickness in children who encounter the substance.

Many of the people who own the land on which soy is grown are not Argentine, and view the land as a short-term investment rather than a long-term sustainable project. Consequently, many farms are in constant soy production, with no crop rotation or thought of maintaining arable soil. The quest for soy land (which turns a short-term profit) has also contributed to the mass deforestation of El Chaco (where we are living this year). The destruction of this ecosystem has led directly to the increase in summer temperatures from around 100 degrees Farenheit, to insufferable heat that often approaches 120 degrees F.

Although there are many comedores (soup kitchens) that have been offered soy-based dishes, it turns out that soy actually impedes young children´s ability to absorb nutrients. So feeding them soy amplifies the problems of anemia and malnutrition. Many are asking why wheat and beef, the staples of Argentine diet, must become more and more inaccesible to all involved. In a food-rights sense, the concern about importing and exporting most of one´s food has more to do with direct connections to food production than the more common environmental concept of "food-miles," which may or may not help the environment, and also may or may not help people eat.

One thing that surprised me was the close connection of soy production to the trafficking of women. Some argue that the infrastructure which soy production demands also provides avenues for trafficking: highways and railways, increasingly used to transport soy and decreasingly used for public transit, make clandestine transport easy, and any subsequent attempts at getting back home more difficult. In addition to this, the movement of employment from agricutural communities to trucking and transit creates a mobile population of mostly men alone, far from home, helping create the market for prostitution. This theme has been a major interest of the women´s group at our church here in Resistencia (see previous entries in this blog for more information). One of the women at the retreat shared that she had intercepted her neighbor´s 12-year-old daughter on her way to a fishy job offer that would almost certainly have landed her in forced prostitution; knowing that we are all only 2 or 3 degrees away from women being bought and sold is tragic and makes me understand better why this topic is attracting so much attention in the church and nation here.

Anyway, for more information, some in English, you can look at the website http://www.lasojamata.org. This is a horribly complicated and horrifying problem, especially since assuredly no one intended to cause so much harm to land and people through profitable farming for export. Of course, overproduction of soy does not help anyone except those who buy soy cheaply for use in biofuel and cattle feed.

The event made the local paper, if you can read a bit of Spanish: http://www.unosantafe.com.ar/26.10.2008/noticias/8612_M+s_de_150_mujeres_discutieron_el_modelo_agropecuario_vigente.html

The retreat, incidentally, allowed me to experience a robust, pro-child, pro-family feminist spirit that I have not felt in a long time. Many women brought their babies, and of course mate was consumed on all sides. (see previous post) I bought my own mate, made of recycled materials at a women´s coop in Córdoba. I also accompanied one of the women who was with me in painting a Lutheran rose in a mural commemorating the event, which made me reflect on the Christian spirituality that is often absent in such discussions.

So why should this be a topic of concern for missionaries and for Christians? Why do I think that a symbol of Lutheran faith relates to food rights? I have been reflecting on this a lot, and am tossing around some ideas in my head.

We are commanded to feed the hungry, and I see food rights as securely grounded in Christ´s teachings. That all should have access to food seems enshrined in Leviticus, in the Gospels, in the example of the early Church. I also recall that Jesus used culturally appropriate food to communicate--figs, fish, wine, bread. The central sacrament of our faith asks us to remember Christ through metaphors of food. Our need for His love and redemption is, like our need for food, constant, and our expressions of that need are culturally mediated. Perhaps in solidarity for food rights, we can all try to use locally produced bread and wine/grape juice for our communion celebrations. Please pray for the many South Americans fighting for access to affordable food and for those accompanying the men, women, and children suffering from unneccesary hunger today.

Monday, October 27, 2008

What does Nelson Mandela have to do with Argentina?

After two months in Argentina (can you believe it?) and several emailed, Im'ed and mailed questions about what we're up to, I've realized that its about time for me to explain/describe my role in this missionary experience. Angela has already done a great job of introducing her placement and I'm sure that in the coming weeks and months we will both be able to introduce you to the various people that have entered and enriched our lives here, but let me first respond to the question posed in the title of this post: What does Nelson Mandela have to do with Argentina?


Absolutely nothing.


Nevertheless, I spend the majority of my working hours in Resistencia at the offices of the Centro de Estudios e Investigaciones Nelson Mandela (the Centro Nelson Mandela, or the Nelson Mandela Center for short), which is a non-registered, non-profit NGO in downtown Resistencia. The man in charge is Rolando Nuñez, a lawyer that has worked on human rights issues since the center was founded in 1995, an outspring of socio-political organization against the provincial gubernatorial campaign of a former member of the military dictatorship. In the last 13 years, Nuñez, his colleagues and friends have worked on a wide range of issues, the majority of which focus on the grave problems that confront the inhabitants in the interior of El Chaco (the province in which we currently reside, one of the poorest in Argentina).


In my two months at the center, we've taken on deforestation, the construction of steel mill, the unexplained deaths of some ten people in a small municipality in the interior, a collapsed medical-care system and the not-so-independent judiciary system in the province, just to give you an indication of the wide focus that the Centro Mandela maintains. While the focus may be expansive, the function of the center tends to be very simple: put people in contact with each other. Dr. Nuñez (the title of "doctor" tends to get added to the names of all lawyers here) has developed many strong relationships with hundreds of social players in the provincial, national, and even international arenas. He wakes up early and keeps regular office hours, receiving walk-in clients as well as government functionaries, always with his cellphone close at hand. He almost always knows the right person to call to help someone if he can't do it himself. The Centro Mandela thus functions as a locus of activity for NGO's, students, doctors, lawyers, unions and individuals (especially from aboriginal and indigenous nations) to share information, resources and solidarity. The other, much more public, function of the Center is to make sure that the information available to this network is made public through the media. Nuñez is very adept with mass-media communication, wielding critical adverbs like bureaucrats handle stamps and signatures. His articles, editorials and radio interviews communicate a passionate defense of human rights and dignity, that is often supressed by the government's populist discourse and public cynicism.


What do I DO at the Center? First of all, you should ask yourself why that question matters. After taking a few seconds to think about that, I'll tell you that I go into the office Tuesday through Friday mornings, helping Rolando respond to emails and typing documents that he dictates to me, frequently destined for publication in some media outlet. My adequate Spanish vocabulary and decent computer skills have set me up well for this task, as well as my ability to quickly learn about tasks at hand, making me more familiar with topics as we go along, making the whole process more efficient (for example, I remember names, people and abbreviations, making dictation significantly easier). When I'm not typing, I'm usually reviewing information, studies, newspapers, etc., looking for any relevant information about El Chaco and what needs to be done to help those that are suffering in the interior. When Rolando is on the phone giving a radio interview, I take care of his cell phone and let people know that they need to call him back.


If this gives you any indication of the kind of work that we do and its importance, let me describe my first week to you: Visit the courthouse, parole office and jail on my second day. Attend a conference on public lands and their illegal distribution at the Provincial Legislature on my third day. Fourth day, attend public meeting on the instalation of steel mill in which we represent a minority voice, outnumbered by a large number of angry respondents that criticize our rejection of the steel mill.


And we drink a lot of mate at the office as well. Yum!

In addition to working at the Centro, I also spend several afternoons in the Barrio playing with the kids in the workshops, working with a group of women on issues related to civic engagement (they want to start up an office which can direct people towards government services), and with the local adult school on environmental issues. We're currently thinking about how to link my two placements and we're following up on a couple of very good ideas, which include everything from visiting the interior with a group from the Barrio and increasing media sensitivity and literacy in the Barrio. We'll see where some of this goes.


The Center is named for Nelson Mandela for no specific reason. His international organization has no connection with our office and to the best of my knowledge that is fine for both sides, but his message of peace and justice, especially in the political arena, is one that the Centro Nelson Mandela center in Resistencia takes up every day. The time that I spend with Rolando is constantly engaging, challenging me to develop communicative and expressive strategies to communicate effective critique and to generate the dialogue that may eventually realize effective change. Rolando is becoming a remarkable mentor, full of passion and commitment. His work seems to have such a direct impact on the problems that he addresses that I'm starting to (re)consider going to law school. The LAW is such a formidable institution, resistent to participation my non-experts, which is why the indigenous groups that have rejected Western education and white-people ideology are so disadvantaged, and inappropriately so. There need to be people who will fight for the oppressed, who will help the mute find their voice, and who will strive for peaceful, respectful and dignified development that ACTUALLY engages peoples' needs.

Can I be one of those people? Do I have to be a lawyer to do meaningful work? Of course, this has also fed into the professor vocation as well, building up some questions about the relationship between literary production and democracy, more specifically thinking about how certain forms and themes ellicit participatory responses from various sectors of the general public. Consider for example, the way that people talk about George Orwell's novels 1984 and Animal Farm. These get cited in A LOT of discussions with a variety of audiences and with many different interpretations. Both novels still appear on high school reading lists and Orwell continues to enjoy popularity with American, British, and other readers. What about these two books make us still reference them? What about Uncle Tom's Cabin made it such a powerful book for its time? If you get what I'm getting at here, then you can see the direction that some of my thoughts about potential doctoral work might take (given that I'll be dealing with Latin American writers, probably from Mexico and Argentina).

The way that we make sense of our world is intimately attached to the stories that we know how to tell/hear about it. That's why the media work of the Centro Mandela is so important, working off of the strong community relationships that run through it. As I look forward to what awaits me in the coming months, I expect anything to happen, but I continue to affirm that:

The depressing realities of the marginalized peoples in El Chaco may be complex, but resignation CANNOT be an option.


If you can read Spanish and are interested in seeing the Centro's website, click HERE.

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Tomando Mate

The past couple of weeks have been pleasant but busy here in Argentina. I am getting steadily more absorbed in my placement at the Mission, where I´ve started some yoga and recorder (the musical instrument) workshops. We enjoyed a visit from our program coordinator and also another ELCA pastor last week, and had fun teaching our guest how to make empanadas! Then on Monday our "host family" invited us to an asado (backyard barbeque, roughly) of lamb to celebrate a long weekend. For the record, lambs are adorable, and also delicious. Also for the record, mid-day asados have the advantage over evening asados of giving the body longer to recover before the next day of work.

And I have been tomando a lot of mate.

Tomando mate [pronounced mah-tay], or "taking mate," is a cultural practice to which I was first introduced by former YAGM volunteers in April. It refers literarly to drinking a semi-bitter herbal infusion of crushed yerba mate leaves in hot water. But this beverage and its associated accesories and practices permeate life here in the Chaco (and throughout many parts of South America). One takes mate by putting the loose, crushed leaves in a mate gourd, pouring hot water (about 2 ounces at a time) over the leaves, and using a bombilla, or a metal straw with a strainer on the end to separate the water from the leaves, to drink the beverage. Few Argentines like tomando mate alone, however. This is an intensely social activity, and one person holds the thermos, pours new water into the gourd and passes it to each person in turn.



When we arrived in Resistencia last month, the first thing we did was tomar mate in the back of the pastor´s van, while transporting ourselves and luggage to our new apartment! Since then, I have taken mate in our apartment, in the church, in the after-school program, on front porches, in plazas, in our back yard, and with the hairstylist in the salon where we got our hair cut today! That we do drink mate is usually established within the first few minutes of any introductory conversation here, a question right up there with "Where are you from?", "How long will you be here?", and "Do you like the Chaco?" (Which, of course, we do.)

While mate has not yet replaced coffee in my life, it is here the preferred morning stimulating beverage. Children as young as 18 months old begin sipping from their parents´mates, although most people under the age of 15 prefer a gag-inducing amount of sugar with theirs. This baffled me--when I share mate with the kids at the mission, my stomach revolts at the amount of sugar trying to infiltrate. But then I remembered my introductory attempts at coffee, my junior high days of crunchy coffee, before I learned to appreciate the bitter glory of the bean itself! Very similar.

One thing I do not do much is drink mate alone. While some people do have their equipment at hand at all times (like my coffee mug in the U.S.), it is also the base of many a social gathering. Many conversations begin, "Let´s meet up in the plaza and tomar mate." Those who hold onto the gourd after completing their serving will hear jovial teasing, "It´s a mate, not a microphone!" When we walk up and down the streets of Resistencia, and see families, friends, and courting couples drinking mate in peace on every corner of the city, I feel that at least something is right in the world.


Last week on Friday, I had the honor of tomando mate at a political rally in which (strictly adhering to ELCA policy) we did not participate, but observed. Throughout this peaceful request that the government of the Chaco fulfill electoral promises and enforce the existing laws, people celebrated solidarity in uplifting the rights of all. As we navigated the edges of the crowd, taking both pictures and mate, we ran quick bit of mate to the pastor helping lead one of the participating associations. This was a powerful moment for me: accompaniment is not about trying to exert political influence or expressing the "right" political opinions or scoring "political rally points" to bring up in conversations for the rest of my life, but spending time with people, in communities, and drinking a lot of mate.

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Human Trafficking Abroad, and at home?

Here is a translation of a true story that we heard at the youth event held this past weekend. The main topic of the weekend was human trafficking, its realities, causes, and possible solutions. Please take a moment to read this story, and if you wish, reflect on the questions that follow or use some of the links.

Basilia and her husband, Pedro, had a small business in Bolivia, near Tarija, that wasn't bringing in enough money. So when a friend told them about an opportunity to move to Buenos Aires to work in a clothing factory, they readily accepted and prepared for the trip with their 18-month old daughter. They were going to be paid by the garment, and they would even get food and housing. The gentleman that set up their contract sent them some money to travel to Yacuiba, where they were supposed to contact a taxi driver. The taxista took them to a mountainous area where a guide was waiting to take them through the wilderness to a town, which has a name that is currently escaping me, but supposedly it was in Argentina. The next day, the guide got them to Salta and bought their tickets for Buenos Aires. When the couple got to the bus terminal in the capital, their contact's sister was waiting for them. She took them straight to the factory where they were going to work. They were given a simple dinner and then told to work until one in the morning.



In the workroom, which was really a big shed, there were eighteen adult workers and thirteen children. In one corner and barely concealed by a partition, they set up a cot for the couple and their baby daughter. They later found out that the school-aged child laborers didn't go to school because the patrón didn't allow it. The work day started at 8 in the morning and lasted until 1 the next morning. The workers seldom left the factory, and despite the fact that the door wasn't locked (though they always had to let the manager when they were going to leave), the patrón never missed an opportunity to remind them about their illegal immigration status and the certain encarceration or deportation that awaited them if they were captured by the police. These warnings were corroborated by the two times that the police--whose stationhouse was on the same street--came into the factory and asked for the workers' documents. On both occasions the patrón made them hide behind some old machines in an unused part of the workroom.

There had been an agreement that they would be paid USD$.50 per garment. The first month Basilia made USD$85 and her husband about the same. The second month, the patrón stopped paying them: he gave them each USD$8 a week in credit, telling them that he was going to hold the rest of the money to pay the costs of travel and housing. And on top of the sewing they had to clean the whole building on the weekends with the money from their "credit". When Pedro asked for the missing money that he was owed, the patrón and his wife beat him and set the dog on him. That was when they decided to leave.

Some questions to consider:

Have you heard any stories similar to this one? Who was involved? Where did it take place?What happened at the end of the story?

What kinds of problems do you think Basilia and Pedro faced when they fled the factory? Where will they go? What will they do? What has changed as a result of their journey?

What would you do if you found yourself in work conditions like those at this garment factory? What would you do if you were Basilia and Pedro when they walked out?

Where is God in this story and in others like it?

Some links to follow:

US Dept of Labor Report on Argentinian Child Labor

A news article on Bolivian slave laborers in Argentina

News article from THE GUARDIAN about Argentina's slave trade

UN Report on Argentinian Human Trafficking

State Department report on Human Trafficking in the United States (large PDF)

Collection of articles on US Human Trafficking

An article from the AFL-CIO on contemporary US slavery